Spring Itinerary

Our journey begins in Mararikulam, a fishing village overlooking the white sands of the Malabar Coast, close to where the Indian Ocean becomes the Arabian Sea. On the third day, we travel 200 miles west, across the impossibly blue waters of the Arabian Sea, to the remote atoll of Bangaram, in the little-known archipelago of the Lakshadweep. The coral island, with its perfect, secluded white beaches, will be our home for five days.

Returning to the mainland, we explore Kerala’s famed Backwaters on board luxury Kettuvalam houseboats, and delight in the irresistible comforts of Coconut Lagoon; rated among the 25 best getaways in the world by Condé Nast Traveller, the Coconut Lagoon nestles on the shores of Vembanad Lake.

We will then travel north, through the spectacular scenery of the Cardamom Hills, to the hill town of Thekkady, on the border with Peryiar National Park. This will be the starting point for a one-day trek and bamboo rafting expedition into the Park.

Peryiar, which is home to around 35 tigers, offers the opportunity to encounter a variety of wildlife including elephants, deer, otters and buffaloes. For the less adventurous, excursions to the surrounding tea and spice plantations are available as an alternative. Our hotel in Thekkady is the Spice Village, itself set within the grounds of a XIX century botanical park.

The last part of our journey will take us back to the sea, to the ancient port town of Kochi, for a chance to photograph and explore its uniquely cosmopolitan history.

Itinerary:

Day 1) Meeting at Kochi international airport; transfer to Mararikulam. Accommodation at the Marari Beach Resort is in thatched cottages spread across 25 acres of parkland. Facilities include Ayurvedic Centre, Yoga, Swimming Pool, Tennis, and Volleyball. Lunch and afternoon at leisure. At sunset, visit to the Hindu temple of Mararikulam; return to the hotel, supper.

Day 2) Morning at leisure; lunch. Afternoon, excursion to Kayamkulam and visit to the 18th century Palace of Krishnapuram. Return to Marari Beach; “Cooking with Spices”, cookery demonstration, and supper.

Day 3) Breakfast, transfer to Kochi International Airport for connect flight to Agatti (flight time 1 hour 30 minutes). Boat transfer Agatti-Bangaram Island (40 minutes ca.). (Our host CGH Earth, handles all tickets and boat transfers to and from Bangaram, making early booking essential.) The island, which measures less that 3 square kilometres and is inhabited only by a handful of fishermen, is surrounded by a reef-rimmed lagoon of tranquil, azure waters. Accommodation is in bungalows at the Bangaram Island Resort. The resort has a certified Dive Centre offering snorkelling and diving. We remain on the island for 5 nights.

Day 8) Return to mainland and transfer to Kumarakom, where we will be transported by boat to Coconut Lagoon. As its name suggests, the resort - which can be reached only by boat - is hidden amongst the palm trees. Accommodation is in original, wooden bungalows carved in Keralan style. This is how National Geographic Traveler described Coconut Lagoon: “The colonial style houses of white stucco and dark Keralan teak represent the kind of architecturally and aesthetically sound tourism now rare elsewhere in India" Lunch and afternoon at leisure. Sunset cruise on Vembanad Lake. Supper and performance of traditional Keralan dance.

Day 9) Early morning: Kalari performance on the shores of Vembanad Lake. In the ancient martial art of Kalari, two men armed with swords and protected only by shields enact a duel with acrobatic jumps. Alternatively, there is the opportunity to visit the Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary; spreading across 14 acres on the banks of Vembanad Lake, the sanctuary attracts over 50 species of migratory birds including the Siberian stork, egret, darter, and heron. After breakfast, we board the Kettuvalam houseboats from which we explore the unique network of waterways of the Backwaters. Lunch, supper and overnight stay on the Kettuvalam (max. 4 people per houseboat).

Day 10) After breakfast on the Kettuvalams, transfer by minibus to Thekkady. Climbing through the Western Ghats, the hills that divide Kerala from its neighbouring state of Tamil Nadu, this road offers spectacular views across the plantations of cardamom, pepper, cinnamon, tea, coffee, and rubber which have been for centuries the source of Kerala’s wealth. Arrival at Spice Village in time for a late lunch. Botanical tour of the park that encloses the property; at dusk, boat ride on Peryiar Lake, inside Peryiar National Park, for a chance to see the animals as they come to drink on the shores of the lake. Supper and overnight at Spice Village.

Day 11) Early Breakfast, followed by daylong trekking and bamboo rafting inside Peryiar National Park. The park allows a maximum of 10 people per day into the forest. Groups are accompanied by park rangers. As the terrain inside the park is relatively flat, and the waters of the lake are shallow and calm, this day-long visit is moderately arduous. However, guided visits to the surrounding spice plantations are also available as an alternative for the day. Supper and overnight at Spice Village.

Day 12) Breakfast, and transfer to Kochi. Our hotel in Kochi is the Brunton Boatyard, an Indo-Portuguese style building overlooking the Kochi Harbour, on the Arabian Sea, in the heart of the old town of Fort Kochi. Afternoon at leisure. Sunset cruise of Kochi harbour. Supper and overnight at the Brunton.

Day 13) Breakfast, followed by guided visit to the XVI century murals that decorate Mattancherry Palace, in the Muslim area of the same name. Lunch, afternoon visit to the Pardesi Synagogue, in Jewtown. One of the highlights of this visit is a chance to see the synagogue’s XVIII century hand-painted, Chinese floor tiles; each blue and white tile is unique and represents a story of forbidden love between a Mandarin’s daughter and a commoner. Redolent with the aroma of pepper, cumin, turmeric, cloves and the other spices that fill the warehouses, the streets of Jewtown offer the chance to experience the colourful hustle and bustle of an Indian market. Jewtown is also renowned for its antiques shops, so shopping here is de rigueur. Supper and overnight at the Brunton Boatyard.

Day 14) Breakfast. Transfer to the airport if required. End of tour.